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As the sun rose we could hear the
unmistakable sound of wings beating on the early dawn cold air. The
whistle that flapping wings make as waterfowl fly overhead. It was
early October and the ducks and geese had begun their migration
south and we had decided we wanted some wild duck for a special
dinner. So my family decided to make a day out of it, and off we
went to the fields near New Norway.
It wasn’t long before we had a nice brace
of duck and were ready to clean them for dinner. But this is the
stage where many people aren’t sure that to do next. There sit 5
wild ducks in the sink, plucked and cleaned. Now what?
The first thing to remember is wild game
need not be “gamey”. Some people enjoy the “pioneer taste” while
others prefer a milder flavor achieved through marinades and sauces.
Secondly, don’t treat wild fowl like
chicken or turkey. Most all ducks will be tender. Geese on the other
hand tend to get tougher as they age. Usually an easy rule of thumb
is any goose over eight pounds may tougher. Marinating may be
required.
The use of marinades serves two purposes.
One, to tenderize the meat and two, to add flavor helping to mask
the “wild” taste. There are as many different types of marinades as
there are shot pellets in a box of shells. So experiment and have
fun. All wild game cookbooks usually feature a section on marinades
and sauces. Chapters book stores in Edmonton have a good selection.
Marinades should always be prepared in
glass, pottery or ceramic type dishes, never metallic because the
basic ingredient in every marinade is acid. So you will want to use
non-metallic utensils. The most popular acidic ingredients are wine,
lemon juice and vinegar. The acid is what breaks down tough tissue
of the game and tenderizes the meat. Some recipes call for
marinating for several hours, others for several days. Always place
the game and marinade in the fridge if you have to let it sit for
more than half a day.
A simple way to remove the gamey taste is
to soak the bird in a solution of salt and baking soda, about a
quarter cup of each in enough water to cover the bird.
Sauces on the other hand, can compliment
the meat, adding flavor, texture and contrast to your dish.
There are vinaigrette sauces based on oil
and vinegar, mayonnaise sauces, which are creamy, emulsified sauces
of egg yokes and oil, and the roux sauces based on the thickening
properties of flour, when combined with butter and milk or stock.
Again, most wild game cookbooks will include a section on sauces.
When cooking your waterfowl remember NOT to
overcook it or let the meat dry out! The best way to prepare your
dish is the moist, slow cooking method. Laying strips of bacon over
the entire dusk, known as barding, will add flavor and keep the duck
moist.
And don’t forget to baste the bird with the
juices or drippings in the pan, fairly frequently during cooking.
When the bird has achieved the desired
doneness (see chart) then it can be carved and presented on a
platter with or without a sauce.
Bon Appetit!
Waterfowl Cooking Time:
| Large Ducks |
Rare 20-30
minutes at 400 degrees |
Well 45-60 minutes at 400 degrees
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| Small Ducks |
Rare 12-15 minutes at 400
degrees |
Well 20 minutes at 400 degrees |
| Goose Roast |
2 ˝ hours
at 375 degrees
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