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Ice Cold Soup

Category:Editorials (John Berry)
Published Date: July 2003

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There is nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s afternoon on the patio than a bowl of ice-cold soup. Yup you heard right. Not hot, not warm, but straight from the icebox, with bowls right out of the freezer. Now before I have the soup nazis ganging up on me, it’s not as bad as it sounds. And it’s been around since soup was invented.

 

There is documentation that as early as 600 BC the Greeks sold soup as fast food on the street. And I’m sure that there were more than a handful of early travelers who grabbed some on the run, minus the luxury of a thermos.

 

Cold soups can be as simple as a chilled version of a cream soup, or as unique as a cold fruit soup blended with yogurt. But they are hard to classify since many of them combine different preparation methods. So for simplicity’s sake they are usually broken down into two categories. Those that require cooking, and those that do not.

 

Many of the cold soups are simply cooked soups that are chilled. For example, one of the most famous cold soups, Vichyssoise, is nothing more than a chilled puree of potato leek soup.

 

Quite a few of the cooked cold soups use fruit juice, such as apple, grape or orange as a base and are thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot. Pureed fruit is usually also added. For additional flavor wine is sometimes used in place of some of the fruit juice. Add to this cinnamon, ginger and other spices that compliment fruit along with lemon or limejuice for a touch of acidity, and you have a wonderfully delicious treat.

 

For garnishing, crème fraiche, yogurt or sour cream adds the right finishing touch.

 

As for uncooked cold soups, most rely on pureed fruits or vegetables for thickness, body and flavor. Cold stock is sometimes used to adjust the soups consistency. But here’s where you have to be careful. Because the soup hasn't been heated bacteria and enzymes will not be destroyed and the soup can spoil quickly. There’s not a long shelf life here. So make small batches to ensure no leftovers. If you are like me, I tend to forget they are there. So to avoid any risks, don’t make a double batch and hold it for “another time”.

 

Chef Ross Munro of the Westin Hotel says over the past 5 or 6 years, cold soups have gained in popularity, to the point now that they are being served fairly regularly at banquets, and you can even find them on seasonal menus. “It all depends on what you add as a garnish. Lobster tail, shrimp, fruit, it then could become an entrée”, he adds.

 

The chef admits that it has been a bit of a hard sell in places like Edmonton, where people are used to eating their soup HOT and HEARTY. But once you’ve tried it, you’ll be hooked. I know I was. A good recipe source is either the Soup Bible published by Prospero Books and compiled by Debra Mayhew, available at Chapter’s, or GeezerGourmet.com on-line.

 

 

SOME COLD SOUP HINTS:

 

1.      If the soup is to be creamed, add the cream at the last minute. It will help extend the soup’s shelf life.

2.      Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than hot soups. To achieve this use less starch or a higher ratio of liquid to the main ingredient if the soup is to be thickened by pureeing. Check the thickness and adjust just before serving.

3.      Cold dulls the sense of taste. So prior to serving check your seasonings. Add if necessary.

4.      Chill your bowls before serving.

5.      Serve the soup as soon as possible.



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