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Take this Drill to Your Grill

Category:Editorials (John Berry)
Published Date: May 2004

Comments

Canadians favourite summer past-time happens right in our own backyards. I'm talking sizzlin baby ! Barbecue. This craze has caught on so well, many Edmontonians are cooking on the barbie year round.

But wait a minute. Are we barbecuing or grilling? Aren't they the same?

Not by a country mile. Just ask Edmonton's foremost barbeque expert "Smokey" Joe Goldfeder. You might remember the name. He ran one of the best Oklahoma Pit restaurants in Western Canada. From the backwoods of the south he came, carrying a family recipe that would make him famous.

Joe is retired from the business now, but his restaurant still flourishes in West Edmonton using Joe's secret formulas.

He readily admits that what he does when he creates barbecue is not rocket science, just good, old-fashioned, easy-smoking techniques.

And herein lies the difference. When we fire up the barbie, we're actually grilling, using gas or charcoal. True barbecue infuses the meat, fish or poultry with a heavenly taste of the backwoods: smoke. And it's done over a low heat, usually 150 F (65 C), no more, for long periods of time. It has become the fastest growing segment of the outdoor-cooking market in North America, according to the Barbecue Industry Association.

Grilling, by contrast, uses direct heat, usually a high heat, for a shorter period of time, especially for small, thin, tender meats or fish that can be cooked in 20 minutes or less.

When we grill, we can use either a gas or propane model, or one that uses charcoal, the old-fashioned way. Many argue that to get the best taste one should use charcoal or briquettes. I far prefer the smoky taste imparted this way. However, gas can be quicker, cleaner, and easier to regulate in terms of temperature.

To test the temperature of your charcoal fire, I use the hand method. Now be careful. Trying this after a few beers or couple of glasses of wine may result in burns, and I don't want anybody calling me to say they tried this, and now have a hand that's medium-rare.

Place your hand near the rack. The length of time you can keep it there comfortably, will tell you your heat level.

A high heat, 400 - 450 F (205 to 230 C), will give you about two seconds.

This is when the fire is the hottest, with small natural flames and the coals starting to turn white with ash.

A medium fire, 350 - 375 F, (175 - 200 C) will allow a four-second wait. A low fire, 300 - 350 F, (150 - 175 C) will allow you to keep your hand over the grill for five seconds.

When will you know when your meat or poultry is done?

Experienced cooks and chefs can tell simply by pressing their tongs on top of the meat. I could never quite get it until a chef told me to practice using my hand. Open your hand, palm side up. Take your second finger on your other hand (Peter Pointer, you'll recall from your youth) and lightly poke the flesh between your thumb and the second finger on your up-turned hand. That's what a rare piece of steak should feel like.

Now move your finger to the bottom, most fleshy part of your thumb and lightly poke. That's what a medium steak should feel like. If you move your finger to just below the base of your thumb (the first bending joint) that's what a well done piece of meat will feel like.

Alternatively, buy a meat thermometer and test for doneness. An instant-read thermometer that you stick in for about 15 - 20 seconds to test doneness is what I prefer. Go with the dial thermometer. The digital ones are fine, but more temperamental and don't stand-up as well. Clip out the chart on temperatures and keep it handy for quick reference.

A wide range of devices can be purchased for true barbecuing or smoke-cooking.
Because most of us are into lean cuisine, this style of cooking has expanded to include veggies, fish and leaner meats. But pork ribs, beef brisket and turkey are still very popular.

To be true barbecue you have to have at least 39% shrinkage in your meat, a result of the slow cooking and smoke.

The ideal heat is 150 F (65 C). The cooking time depends on the calibre and thickness of the meat. Pork ribs for example will only take 2 1/2 to three hours. A brisket, ham or turkey will take six to eight hours, again depending on weight. When you buy a grill-smoker such as the one seen in this article, you'll receive a pamphlet outlining the various cooking times and corresponding weights.

You should marinate your meat overnight before cooking for tenderness and a better flavour. I suggest using one cup of salt to four litres of water. That's your basic brine. Some people will add garlic or other spices. If you are using ribs, they only have to be marinated 30 to 45 minutes before smoke-cooking. Your brisket, ham or turkey should be soaked overnight. All meats should be completely immersed in the marinade.

Some people prefer to use a rub. This is a blend of herbs and spices rubbed into your meat before it hits the rack. I like to let my meat sit in the fridge for four hours after being rubbed to absorb the flavours. You can also leave it overnight if you wish.

Your grill-smoker employs a pan for your charcoal, a water or liquid pan that sits directly above the coals, and two racks for your meat. The liquid pan keeps your product moist and juicy, and you may wish to add a little wine or spices for extra flavour for your meat.

Some people insist that choosing the right wood to add to the smoke is the most important step. And it's not complicated. Any fruit bearing wood such as cherry, apple, pear and so on, will greatly enhance the flavour. Mesquite, alderwood, hickory and willow also does a wonderful job.

The key here, though, is to totally soak the wood overnight in water, or preferably use green wood. You don't want it to catch fire adding fuel to your fire.

The neat thing about this smoker, is that the water pan can be removed and no wood added, and it can be used as a portable charcoal grill. Now if you don't want to buy a grill-smoker, you can duplicate the method by the indirect method of cooking on your grill. Turn one side of burners on low. Place your meat over the unlit section. Add your wet wood over the lit coals and make sure your heat doesn't go over 150 F (65 C). Once you've tried the real barbeuce your taste buds will be screaming for more.



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