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Where's the beef?

Category:Editorials (Brad Smoliak)
Published Date: 01/02/2007

Comments

Where's the beef?
 

Pose it to a Canadian, and the response would inevitably be Alberta or sarcastically, on the BBQ.  Famed for their prized cattle, this oil-rich province is an eclectic mix of city slickers and down-home ranchers.  Home to world’s largest Stampede (founded in 1912 and held yearly in Calgary every July to celebrate their true cowboy lineage), where Western style hats and spurs are de rigueur, there is an affinity with rearing, riding, and eating their superstar stock.  With 2.5 million heads, the cattle population nearly eclipses the provincial population of 3 million.  Alberta is cattle country.  Any questions?

“Being the biggest single producing province always helps with your reputation,” says Mike Spear of the Alberta Beef Producers organization, “but we also lead the country in modern practices for humane and safe handling of cattle and therefore have earned a good reputation for safe, high quality meat.  Alberta also is a leader in purebred or pedigreed breeding stock and of course the more you work on your genetic strength the more you can improve your product.”  Amongst the oil and tar sands, cities and towns, the province is rich with pristine natural resources, the Rocky Mountains, and thousands of acres of green pastures - fertile farmland, an ideal environment for the more than 35,000 beef cattle producers.  Here quantity actually does denote quality.

“It is pasture raised and grain finished which results in superior marbling of the meat,” describes Spear.  “Marbling, being the intramuscular fat found in a beef cut, is a major criteria in grading.  Most Alberta Beef are finished on barley whereas U.S. beef is finished on corn.  Barley is a high protein energy feed and with all the land we have available we are able to grow it in good supply and quality.”  Spear also comments on existing data to suggest that barley results in a whiter and firmer fat, and a better taste. For a chef and a connoisseur that means maximization of flavour and texture.

Chef Smoliak agrees. “It is all about the flavour - it is so hard to describe but we have really consistent juicy beef.  Even in ground beef you can taste it.”  As a born and bred Albertan, Chef Brad Smoliak, owner of Brad Smoliak Cooks a caterer cum personal chef, culinary instructor, and co-founder, once co-owner of the famous Hardware Grill in Edmonton, grew up on Alberta Beef so his opinion could easily be jaded.  On the contrary he has experience with beef from New Zealand, Australia, Argentina, and the USA but remains a proponent for the homegrown variety. For those of you who have tried Alberta beef, there is definitely a discernable taste. “The taste and texture is richer, cleaner. It is just that much more tender, because it seems to have more moisture and absolutely more marbling. Ten years ago they went really lean and it actually turned people off.  Now they have gone to a much better product and it is so versatile.  As often as we can, we use the AAA, it is what we served at the Hardware Grill.”  The Hardware Grill’s award-winning Chef Larry Stewart still offers a mouthwatering entrée on the menu - Alberta Beef Tenderloin, Blue Cheese-Gratin Potatoes, Roasted Chioggia Beets, Horseradish Crème Fraîche, Bordelaise Sauce

Chef Smoliak’s ultimate beef indulgence is smoked BBQ prime rib, an 18-hour process in an outdoor BBQ.  The cut of meat is highly dependant on the proper cooking process and timing to coax out the most flavourful, tender, and juicy results.  “It depends on what you are cooking, he says, “it has a lot to do with the cut.  If you are cooking a steak don’t go past medium-rare because you start to loose moisture and as it dries out you start to loose flavour.”  He also recommends rubs, marinades, and beer.  “I use rubs on both roast and steak – massaging the rub into the roast the night before and the steak 2 to 3 hours before I grill it.  For the less expensive cuts, braise it until it falls off the bone, and braise it in beer, with garlic, onions, herbs, and spices.”  A true Albertan, he uses the Smoked Porter brew from the local Alley Kat microbrewery in Edmonton.

The Alberta Beef Producers along with Canada’s Beef Information Centre spend a great deal of time and effort informing consumers of the best ways to cook the various cuts.  They have even changed the name of the cuts to make cooking easier for consumers.  “Strip Loin Steak is now more widely known as Strip Loin Grilling Steak so people know it can be grilled on the BBQ, an indoor grill, or under the broiler,” says Mike Spear.  “However as far as the meat itself goes we produce a lot of top quality beef with almost 50% of it falling into the Canada AA category, and around 20% in the AAA category.”  That means with either grade, you are starting off with superior taste and texture.  Both beef organizations produce brochures, cookbooks, school Food Studies programs, and ad campaigns but have found one of the best ways to pass on the tips is right in the store.  “For instance we started in the first week of July, in 4 Sunterra stores in Calgary and Edmonton, handing out samples and cooking tips and advice to consumers.”  A partnership with the store that will also offer meat specials for a 12 week period, the height of grilling season on the prairies.  “That one-on-one contact is key,” Spears states.

Restaurants and chefs make a point of indicating the origin if this famed beef on their menus.  Would that be for the notoriety, the taste, or a bit of both?  “You’ll find strong proponents of both reasons,” says Spear, “and we’d like to think it all lies in the taste but Alberta was built on an Agriculture Industry long before any oil and gas boom, so there is a great deal of pride in serving Alberta Beef.  Again, in co-operation with the Beef Information Centre we work closely with the food service industry to promote the product and more importantly work together to improve cooking techniques, new recipes, and new uses for various cuts.”

If it ain’t Alberta it ain’t beef.  Evidently they live by that motto and you can see why with Chef Smoliak’s recipes:

Italian Pot Roast

2-3 lb  Chuck roast

2 tbsp oil

1 medium onion, sliced

1 14oz can tomatoes, with liquid

1 cup stock or water

1 cup red wine

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

sprigs of thyme

4-6 garlic cloves

1/2 cup flour

kosher salt & fresh cracked black pepper

3 tbsp chopped parsley

1/2 cup olives, roughly chopped (optional)

Pre-heat oven to 275 degrees.  Heat a heavy Dutch oven over medium high heat.  Season the beef with salt and pepper, generously, and then dust with flour to evenly coat.  Pour oil into pan and brown roast on all sides.  Remove meat from pot, reduce heat, remove any excess fat, and then add onions and sauté until soft.  Add the stock, wine, tomatoes, vinegar, thyme and garlic cloves.  Bring to a boil, then gently place roast in pot, cover with tight fitting lid or wrap with foil.  Braise in oven for 3-4 hours or till fork tender.

Remove meat form pot and keep warm, strain liquid, reserve solids, and reduce and de- grease liquid.  Season if need, add the solids back to liquid, and either process with emersion blender or pour over sliced roast.

BBQ Rub for Ribs

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup seasoning salt

2 tbsp garlic salt

1 tbsp onion salt

1 tsp. Celery salt

1/4 cup paprika

1 tbsp chili powder

1 tbsp freshly ground pepper

1/4 tsp allspice

1/4 tsp cayenne

Mix all of the ingredients together, then spread over ribs liberally.  Place on a very low grill for about 2-2 1/2 hours.  Smoke chips can be added for extra flavour, as well a small tray of water may be put into the BBQ to add moisture to the cooking process.

The Beef Information Centre is an invaluable resource of information and recipes for beef, Alberta or otherwise.  The consumer resources section has a number of downloadable recipe collections and buying guides.

If you are looking for a great gourmet, fine-dining quality meal in your own home, contact Chef Brad Smoliak  (bsmoliak@shaw.ca or 780-461-7762) and request something with Alberta beef.  He will only be too happy to oblige and because he includes other great Canadian ingredients you might just discover something new from your own backyard.



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